The Story Of Ledikeni: From A British Aristocrat’s Fondness To A Famous Confection Maker
Written by Neelanjana Mondal | July 2, 2024
An unusual-sounding mishti that somehow sounds Bengali, but feels wrong when pronounced; that is because it is actually a colloquial name. Its charm lies in the mispronunciation that continues to keep it popular, despite its colonial ties. Lady Kenny or Ledikeni sweet is a close relative of the gulab jamun and pantua, and is a beautiful shade of reddish-brown that is soaked in sweet sugar-syrup. This beloved delicacy in Kolkata is named after a British aristocrat, the intriguing Viscountess Lady Charlotte Stuart.
Ledikeni is often confused with its two cousins, pantua and gulab jamun, because of the striking similarities between them. However, it is ideally prepared from the trademark chenna, which a lot of Bengal sweets are made of, fried until golden brown, and then soaked in sugar syrup, ready to be put up in glass shelves of sweetshops, to be sold.
Ledikeni Sweet: The History And Origin
A Culinary Icon Born From Lady Canning's Fondness
Historians have taken note of Charlotte Stuart, or Lady Canning, who was married to Lord Charles Canning, the first Viceroy and the last Governor-General of India. But unlike most Victorian wives who hosted tea parties and hid behind brocade hand fans, Lady Canning would accompany her husband to work. She took an active interest in war and politics as revealed by her letters, and it was no wonder the locals noticed her presence.
Just like Lord Curzon’s visit that spurred the invention of Sitabhog and Mihidana in West Bengal’s Bardhaman, Ledikeni’s tale is also similar and wooed two prominent colonizers into loving the sweets of Bengal. She loved the sweets so much that, like Lord Curzon, she demanded that the sweets be prepared whenever she was hosting parties or entertaining guests.
Lady Canning was the actual spelling of this sweet created by Nag. But, as time passed, it watered down to Lady Kenny, then finally settled into the mispronounced, yet fond nickname of Ledikeni. Given her influence in Bengal, that had a sweetmaker honor her with an original sweet. She died in 1861, and her grave still exists in Kolkata, which has been converted into a memorial and today can be found adjacent to St. John's Church in Kolkata. Perhaps it was the mispronunciation of the name that subtly sticks even today, that continues to make it as popular as it is today, since the day it was made.
Bhim Chandra Nag: The Master Confectioner Behind The Lady Canning Sweet
As stories for most sweets go, two versions explain the origin of the Ledikeni sweet. One version states that it was supposedly made upon her request for her birthday in 1858, and the other version says it was made by a local sweetmeat maker to welcome her to Bengal in 1856. Whichever version you choose to believe, the tales lead to Bhim Chandra Nag, whose name is also synonymous with sandesh. But it was Ledikeni that propelled him to posthumous fame in Bengal and beyond, and he makes it feel like it would be under the section of quick, sweet recipes.
It’s a few lanes away from the venerable shop of Bhim Chandra Nag, which was established in Bowbazar standing even today, run by the 6th generation of his family. It is located at Nirmal Chandra Street, which was earlier known as Wellington Street. The shop was set up by Bhim Chandra Nag’s father, Paran Chandra Nag, in 1826. The shop is famed for the Ledikeni and Cooke and Kelvey clock, which was gifted by clock-maker Thomas Cooke to Bhim Nag as a present for his busy shop. It was specially made for this sweet shop by Cooke, and upon request, the clock’s dial was converted into the local language so the workers could read the time. This clock is still functional and hangs in the shop as a reminder of the friendship between an English clockmaker and a Bengali sweetmeat maker.
Ledikeni From Scratch: An Authentic Recipe
Ingredients
- 1.5 cups of fresh chhena
- 2 cups of sugar
- 1 cup khoya
- 1–2 tbsp flour
- 1 tsp ghee
- A pinch of baking powder
- 3–4 cups water
- 3–4 cardamom pods
- 3 tablespoons ghee
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: In a bowl, add the chenna, khoya, baking powder, and flour. Add some water and knead it into a smooth dough.
Step 2: Once the dough is ready, divide it into small, oblong-shaped balls using your hands. Make sure there are no cracks in the balls.
Step 3: In a frying pan, heat oil over a medium flame and deep fry the balls in ghee until they turn deep reddish-brown.
Step 4: In a saucepan, prepare the sugar syrup by boiling sugar and water. Make sure the syrup is of medium consistency.
Step 5: Place the fried balls into the warm syrup and let them soak for some time before serving them warm.
Ledikeni, Pantua, Gulab Jamun: Know The Difference
Ledikeni and Pantua
Pantua and Ledikeni both share the same Bengali legacy. Despite both being chhena-based soft and syrupy delights, the shapes, colors, and preparations are different. In terms of shape, while pantua features a round shape, Ledikani is known for its signature longish shape. When it comes to colors, a deep-fried pantua is dark brown or nearly black, while a perfect Ledikani has a reddish brown tone.
Ledikeni and Gulab Jamun
Often identified as the North Indian cousin of Ledikeni, Gulab Jamun is quite different from this Bengali delicacy. While both belong to a common genre of fried and milk-based sweets, there are clear differences in other ingredients, shape, and flavor. Ledikeni primarily relies on chhena, while Gulab Jamun is all about khoya, paneer, and semolina. Similar to Pantua, Gulab Jamun features a round spherical shape, while Ledikeni is longish. About flavors, Ledikeni carries a subtle caramel-infused flavor, while a strong, cardamom flavor is at the center of Gulan Jamun.
The Cultural Significance of Ledikeni in Bengal
With an intriguing origin rooted in the colonial era, Ledikeni is nothing short of a cherished culinary symbol of Bengal. What stemmed from Lady Canning’s fond recommendation in the 19th century became a permanent cultural icon of Bengal through Bhim Nag’s unmatched expertise.
When it comes to Bengal’s festive almanac, it is studded with hallmark festivals like Noboborsho, Durga Puja, Kalipuja, and more. Be it a festive season or an occasion like a wedding, celebrations are never complete here without following the tradition of sharing sweets. And over the centuries, Ledikeni has cemented its presence in the Bengali dessert platter with its subtlety and elegance. Even in this era of fusion sweets, it is equally enjoyed by the sweet lovers of all ages.